I have been to Porto twice. The first time was quite a long time ago and only for three days. Back then, my introduction to the city was fairly classic and touristy: we crossed to the other side of the Douro River, visited a Port wine cellar, rode the double-decker sightseeing bus, and got off at almost every stop just to wander around before hopping back on and continuing the route.

And honestly, despite my love for independent travel, these buses actually make sense in Porto. Especially if you get lucky with the weather. The city is large, hilly, full of different neighborhoods and viewpoints, and the bus helps you quickly understand the overall layout of the city and decide where you may want to return later on foot.

If you are planning to stay in Porto for about a week and don't want to rent a car (you really don't need to), here is a 6–7-day itinerary (with links to Google Maps and tips) in and around Porto without a car. 

Another thing I consider essential in Porto is seeing the city from above. Because of the hills, there are countless viewpoints, and each one offers a completely different perspective. Porto is incredibly beautiful from higher ground. The city unfolds in layers of rooftops, churches, bridges, and the Douro River, slowly stretching toward the Atlantic Ocean.

And almost every uphill street suddenly opens into another view that makes you stop for a moment.

The viewpoints I remember most were Jardim do Morro, one of the most famous places overlooking the Douro River and the Dom Luís I Bridge; Miradouro da Vitória with its views over the rooftops of the old city; Serra do Pilar on the Vila Nova de Gaia side, where Porto looks almost like a theatrical backdrop; Torre dos Clérigos with its narrow staircase and panoramic city views; the terrace near Sé do Porto Cathedral; and the upper level of the Dom Luís I Bridge.

At sunset, both tourists and locals gather on the hill across the river — some bring a bottle of wine, others small snacks, and some simply sit and watch the sun slowly disappear behind the city. There is something very Portuguese about it: calm, simple, and beautiful at the same time.

And honestly, Porto may look even more beautiful from the opposite side of the river, from Vila Nova de Gaia. From there, the city feels almost unreal: bridges, colorful facades, old rooftops, and houses layered one above another along the hills.

Another place to see the sun go down over the horizon line of the Atlantic is the Foz do Douro area

Porto feels nothing like Lisbon, even though they are Portugal's two main cities. Even the colors of the city are different.

The most famous Port wine cellars (caves) are located directly across the Douro River in Vila Nova de Gaia. This area offers a stunning view of Porto's historic riverfront and is easily accessible on foot via the Dom Luís I Bridge or by the Jardim do Morro metro station.  

Taylor’s: Renowned for one of the most informative audio-guided tours and an extensive, historic cellar.

Graham’s: Ideal for deep-dive tours of its working lodge, featuring over 15,000 oak barrels.

Sandeman: Highly recognizable by its iconic "Don" figure, offering great interactive museum-style tours.

Cálem: Famous for pairing guided tours with live, traditional Portuguese Fado performances.

Cockburn's: Known as having one of the most beautiful lodges and operating the largest wooden cooperage in the area.

Ramos Pinto: Celebrated for its rich legacy, art-nouveau advertising displays, and diverse port selections.

Kopke: One of the oldest Port houses (founded in 1638), perfect for intimate tastings often paired with chocolate.

Espaço Porto Cruz: A modern, multi-story tasting and exhibition space with a popular rooftop lounge offering sweeping river views.

Ribeira is one of the most famous parts of Porto. It could probably be compared to Alfama in Lisbon, but the atmosphere feels completely different.

Yes, it is touristy. But early in the morning or late in the evening, it still has a very special feeling. Old colorful houses stand almost on top of one another. Narrow staircases climb uphill. Somewhere music is playing. People sit by the river with glasses of wine. And above everything rises the Dom Luís I Bridge — probably the main symbol of the city.

The riverside itself also has a special atmosphere. Tourists and local couples stroll along the waterfront, street musicians perform, break dancers dance in small circles of spectators, chestnuts are roasted, wine is poured, and grilled chouriço fills the air with smoke and aroma.

If you walk a bit away from the river, you naturally end up on Rua das Flores. It feels like a transition zone between the chaos of Ribeira and the more structured city center. The street is narrow, slightly polished by tourism, but still full of character. There are small cafés, old façades, shops selling ceramics and local products, and sometimes live music spilling out onto the pavement. It’s one of those streets where you don’t really “go somewhere” — you just drift through it.

Another thing I found fascinating is the relationship Porto residents have with Lisbon. Northern pride is very noticeable here.

Many people in Porto genuinely believe that their city is the true heart of Portugal. And in a way, there is logic behind it: nearby Guimarães is considered the birthplace of the Portuguese nation — the place where the history of Portugal effectively began.

People here talk about Lisbon with a mix of rivalry and humor. Sometimes the jokes are friendly, sometimes less so. More than once, it reminded me of the relationship between northern cities and capitals in many countries: Porto residents often see their city as more authentic, more hardworking, less touristy, and less performative.

And it seems that the one thing Porto residents are fully willing to give Lisbon credit for is pastel de nata.

Porto has much more gray stone, dark green, brick, and faded blue. There is less brightness and less “polish” than in Lisbon. And because of that, the azulejos, colorful houses, and occasional rays of sunlight stand out even more beautifully.

In photographs, Porto often looks warm and vibrant. In reality, it feels much more muted. It is often cloudy here, especially outside of summer. There are dark rooftops, old walls, humid air, and heavy stone everywhere.

But that is exactly why the rare sunlight feels almost magical. When the rays suddenly break through the clouds and begin illuminating the azulejos, balconies, and the river, the entire city changes within minutes.

Porto is a city of constant climbs and descents. Sometimes it feels as if nobody ever planned the streets — they simply grew naturally between the hills over centuries. Between buildings, unexpected views suddenly open onto the Douro River, old bridges, terracotta rooftops, and endless tiled facades.

But honestly, the city can be physically demanding. If you have knee or back problems or simply struggle with long walks, it is something worth considering in advance. There are a lot of steep hills. Sometimes what looks like a “10-minute walk” on the map turns into a long stone staircase uphill.

Look for The Bird Man (Estrela Gomes), a local street artist sometimes referred to as the "Portuguese Papageno". I met him on the Rua das Flores. Surrounded by many different birds, he plays an old music box with his birds. He has a certain magical attraction, indeed.

Closer to the river, you might meet another street artist, Estevan Mortensen, the living statue of an old shoemaker. He has been performing on the streets of Ribeira for more than 13 years now.

The second time, Porto revealed itself to me in a completely different way. I spent five full days there — no tourist bus this time, only long walks and walking tours.

Almost everywhere I travel, I try to join Free Walking Tours (look for the guys/gals with big umbrellas in the most popular tourist places in the city or reserve your time online). They exist in nearly every major European city, and Porto is no exception. Usually, these are tip-based tours where local guides show not only the main attractions, but also share things you would probably never notice yourself: details of history, local habits, neighborhood rivalries, city legends, and small nuances of everyday life.

Porto feels especially suited for this kind of exploration because it is a city that needs to be experienced on foot rather than simply “seen.”

The Camino de Santiago officially begins in Porto, with the symbolic starting point at Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto). From there, yellow arrows and scallop shell symbols quietly guide pilgrims out of the city toward northern Portugal. In reality, many people simply set off from the city center and join the route naturally along the way, often around the São Bento area, as the markings gradually lead them out of Porto.