Peniche & Berlengas

Peniche is a coastal town about 90 km north of Lisbon, and just a short drive from Nazaré (roughly 40 km). Set on a rugged peninsula facing the Atlantic, it offers a very different experience from Portugal’s more polished destinations.

Peniche is not a postcard town — and that’s precisely its appeal. It’s a working fishing port with a strong connection to the ocean, where daily life still revolves around the sea. The harbor supplies local restaurants with fresh fish, often served simply and without pretense. At the same time, the town has earned international recognition as one of Europe’s top surf destinations. The nearby Supertubos beach is known for its powerful waves and regularly hosts major global surf competitions.

Wind is almost constant here, shaping both the landscape and the atmosphere. It’s part of what gives Peniche its raw, unfiltered character. Historically, the town also carries weight: the Peniche Fortress once served as a political prison during the Salazar dictatorship, adding a layer of historical depth to an otherwise understated place.

A short boat ride (about 30–45 minutes) offshore from Peniche lies the Berlengas Archipelago, a protected natural reserve centered around Berlenga Grande Island. This is where the experience changes completely. If Peniche feels exposed and wind‑swept, the Berlengas feel remote and pristine. The round‑trip boat ride costs about €25–40. Plan to go early in the morning so you can spend the entire day exploring the island.

The islands are known for their clear turquoise waters, dramatic rock formations, and sea caves carved into the cliffs. Access is limited to preserve the ecosystem, so visits need to be planned in advance, especially during the summer months. Once there, the pace slows down significantly. There are no resorts or developed tourist infrastructure — just walking paths, viewpoints, and the surrounding ocean.

One of the most striking landmarks is the Forte de São João Baptista, a small fortress built on a rocky outcrop and connected to the island by a narrow stone bridge. It’s one of those rare places that feels both cinematic and remote at the same time.

Activities on the island are simple: short hikes, kayaking along the caves, swimming or snorkeling for those willing to handle the cold Atlantic water, or just sitting with the view. The appeal is in the stillness and the sense of separation from the mainland.

Together, Peniche, Nazaré, and the Berlengas form a coherent stretch of Portugal’s central coast — a sequence that moves from dramatic ocean scenery to authentic coastal life, and finally into near-isolation. It’s not about ticking off landmarks, but about experiencing different layers of the Atlantic coast within a compact area.